How nail salon jobs expose workers to harmful chemicals
Linh reached for a rubber glove with no intention of wearing it. Instead, she wrapped the floppy beige fingers around the top of a stubborn nail polish bottle for extra grip as she unscrewed it. The bottle squeaked open, releasing a faint but noxious smell. The glove was dropped back in the drawer.
As she began to paint my fingernails, I asked Linh to tell me about herself. She moved from Vietnam to Dorchester, Mass. a year and a half ago with her husband and two children, now in their twenties, and got the job at this South End salon through a family friend. As she doused my nails with liquid from a generic bottle hand-labeled “Acetone,” I asked if she ever wore gloves while she worked. “For pedicures,” she said, but didn’t elaborate. I don’t speak Vietnamese, and she speaks very little English. Our conversation was brief.
Wearing gloves to paint nails might seem unnecessary or even inconvenient for such dexterous work. But exposure to chemicals found in nail products are linked to numerous health risks, some as extreme as miscarriages and thyroid and lung cancer.
As of 2017, the Bureau of Labor Statistics estimated 104,020 people in the U.S. are employed as nail technicians. Massachusetts has the third largest population of nail technicians per capita after New Jersey and New York. In fact, there might even be more nail salons in Massachusetts than McDonald’s restaurants.
Now, recent reports are shedding light on the dangers of working in nail salons due to the toxic chemicals found in nail products.
In a study published last month in the journal of Workplace Health & Safety, researchers from the University of Wisconsin-Madison found that the air in a typical nail salon has chemical levels that exceed federal occupational exposure limits in the U.S., despite the use of ventilation systems. The most prevalent chemicals they found released by nail polish, formaldehyde and acetone, are associated with skin and eye irritation, respiratory issues, and, in rare cases, leukemia and sinus cancer, according to the study.
Gloves can only protect a worker’s hands from chemical exposure, which is why the Boston Public Health Commission also encourages nail technicians to wear masks, but neither product is required by law.
“Gloves and masks can be expensive, and a lot of workers say they don’t want to wear them because they’re intimidating to the client,” said Tran Huynh, an occupational health professor at Drexel University who published a study in 2018 on the health concerns of Vietnamese nail salon workers in Philadelphia.
Plus, to be effective, workers must use specific types of gloves and masks—thick nitrile or latex gloves and N-95 respirators, the kind of masks handed out in Sacramento during the wildfires this fall. The thin beige surgical gloves in Linh’s drawer, had she worn them, wouldn’t have protected her hands from the chemicals. And Linh wasn’t wearing a mask either while she painted my nails. According to BPHC’s program coordinator Stephanie Seller, the N-95 respirators are supposed to protect workers from breathing in dust created when filing nails, especially acrylics, fake nails that adhere to the top of nails.
So why, in light of this research and the protective equipment we know works, do nail salons neglect to keep their workers safe?
One issue is cost. Last October, all Boston nail salons were supposed to have installed updated ventilation systems in order to carry odors and dust out of the salons and pump in clean air. But while the policy is moving in the right direction, says Huynh, the salons can’t always afford to make the changes.
“Many family-owned salons operate on low profit margins so strict regulations such as installing local exhaust ventilation might negatively impact small businesses due to potential high cost of implementing and maintaining the system,” Huynh writes in the study.
But costs aside, are these ventilation systems enough to keep workers safe? “There are still huge gaps in the research about how these chemicals affect people, and as a result a lot of safety policies are delayed or ineffective,” Huynh said.
Huynh research and personal history are intertwined. Her mother and aunt worked in a nail salon after her family moved from Vietnam to the U.S. “That’s why I started to do this research,” she says. “My mom used to tell me about the headaches and the pain in her hands, but no one had real answers why.”
Those painful memories have become the motivation behind her work. Through her research, Huynh says she hopes to provide vulnerable immigrant workers, more than half of whom are Vietnamese, with the information they need to protect themselves.
“My goal is to work with policymakers so that people can stay safe without hurting their business,” she said.
Photo: Unsplash.